Should I Grade My Pokemon Card? Complete Decision Framework

You've got a Pokemon card that looks pretty minty. Maybe it's a vintage holographic Charizard you pulled as a kid, or a modern chase card from the latest set. The question burning in your mind: should I grade my Pokemon card?

Here's the thing—it's one of the most common questions in the hobby, and one of the most expensive to get wrong. Send the wrong card to PSA, and you've just burned $50+ on a slab that's worth less than the raw card. But skip grading on the right card? You could be leaving hundreds or even thousands of dollars on the table.

When I submitted my first batch to PSA back in 2019, I made every mistake in the book. Sent in a Base Set Blastoise that I was sure was a 9 or 10. Came back a 6. Turns out that tiny crease I'd been ignoring wasn't so tiny under professional lighting. That $75 lesson still stings.

This guide gives you a complete decision framework. No fluff. Just the math, the methodology, and real talk about when grading makes sense—and when it doesn't.

Understanding Pokemon Card Grading Costs in 2025

Before you can calculate whether grading is worth it, you need to know what you're actually paying. Here's the current landscape:

PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator) Pricing Tiers

CGC (Certified Guaranty Company) Pricing

Beckett (BGS) Pricing

Hidden Costs to Factor In

Don't forget these often-overlooked expenses:

• Shipping to grading company: $10-30 (insured)
• Return shipping: Often included, but verify
• Membership fees: PSA $99/year for better pricing; CGC free
• Packaging supplies: $5-15 for proper protection
• Insurance: Essential for valuable cards

Personally, I think PSA is overpriced for modern cards right now. CGC has been gaining serious ground since 2021, and for anything that isn't vintage, you're often better off saving the money and going with them.

The Value Premium: Graded vs. Raw Cards

Here's where it gets interesting. Graded cards command a premium over raw cards—but that premium varies wildly based on:

1. The grade received
2. The card's rarity and desirability
3. The grading company
4. Current market conditions

Typical Value Multipliers by Grade (PSA)

Real-World ROI Examples

Let's be real—that third example? I see it constantly. People send in $3 holos thinking they'll strike gold. They don't.

The Complete Decision Framework

Here's the systematic approach to answering "should I grade this card?"

Step 1: Assess Your Card's Potential Grade

Before spending money on professional grading, you need a realistic assessment of what grade your card might receive. Look for:

Surface Issues:

• Scratches (visible at any angle)
• Print lines or ink spots
• Silvering on holographic cards

Edge Issues:

• Whitening (most common flaw)
• Nicks or chips
• Fuzzing

Corner Issues:

• Rounded or soft corners
• Peeling or damage
• Wear marks

Centering:

• Compare front borders (should be 60/40 or better for PSA 9+)
• Check back centering too (often forgotten!)

I made this mistake once with a beautiful 1st Edition Jungle Flareon. I was positive it was a 10. Looked perfect in my lighting. But I'd never checked the back centering. Came back an 8. The back was 70/30 and I'd never even noticed.

Step 2: Calculate Break-Even Points

Use this formula:

For your card, find where this equation turns positive.

Step 3: Estimate Your Grade Distribution

Based on your honest assessment and typical PSA stats:

Step 4: Calculate Expected Value

Multiply each grade's probability by its value, subtract grading costs:

Step 5: Decision Flowchart

Cards NOT Worth Grading (Save Your Money)

Let's be blunt about cards you should almost never grade:

1. Modern Commons and Uncommons

Why: Even a PSA 10 won't be worth the grading fee. That $2 Pikachu isn't becoming a $50 card with a slab. It just doesn't happen.

2. Cards Worth Under $20 Raw

Why: The math almost never works. You need a 3-4x multiplier just to break even, and that only happens with PSA 10s on desirable cards.

3. Modern Bulk Holos

Why: The market is flooded. PSA 10s of modern set holos often sell for only $10-20, making grading a guaranteed loss.

I checked eBay last week—PSA 10 regular holos from Scarlet & Violet base set are going for $8-12. Eight dollars! After you spent $25+ to grade it.

4. Cards with Obvious Damage

Why: If you can see the flaw, PSA can see it better. Grading a damaged card just certifies the damage at your expense.

5. Cards with Severe Centering Issues

Why: Centering is non-negotiable for high grades. A 70/30 or worse card is capped at PSA 8 regardless of other factors.

6. Cards Where PSA 9 Value ≈ Raw Value

Why: Unless you're confident of a PSA 10 (and honestly, you probably shouldn't be), you're gambling with poor odds.

7. Very Low Population Modern Cards... That Are Still Worthless

Why: "First one graded!" doesn't matter if nobody wants the card. Pop reports don't create demand.

When Grading IS Worth It

Now for the good news—cards where grading often makes sense:

1. Vintage Cards (WOTC Era: Base Set through Neo)

The vintage premium is real. Even PSA 7-8 Base Set holos command significant premiums because condition matters so much to collectors. We're talking cards from 1999-2002 here—they're 25+ years old now. Any surviving in good condition are genuinely scarce.

2. Chase Cards from Any Era

Alternate arts, gold stars, secret rares, and other chase cards have strong grading premiums because collectors want the best versions. That Moonbreon (Umbreon V Alt Art from Evolving Skies) you pulled? Yeah, grade that.

3. Cards Over $100 Raw

Higher-value cards have more room for the grading multiplier to create profit, even if you get a 9 instead of a 10.

4. Truly Flawless Modern Pulls

If you literally just pulled a chase card from a pack and it has perfect centering, grade it immediately before you introduce any wear. Pack fresh is as good as it gets.

5. Cards for Long-Term Holding

If you're holding for 5+ years, grading protects the card and locks in the grade. Future you will thank present you.

I've got a PSA 9 Shining Charizard from Neo Destiny that I graded in 2020 for $50. It's worth over $800 now. Would I have stored the raw card properly for 5 years? Maybe. But the slab gave me peace of mind.

6. Cards You're Selling Soon

A graded card sells faster and at a higher price point than raw, even accounting for grading fees. Buyers trust graded cards.

Common Grading Mistakes to Avoid

Learn from others' expensive errors:

Mistake #1: Overestimating Your Card's Condition

Reality: You're not objective about your own cards. That "gem mint" card probably has flaws you're not seeing. Use magnification and harsh lighting. A cheap jeweler's loupe changed my entire submission strategy.

Mistake #2: Ignoring Back Centering

Reality: PSA checks both sides. Many collectors only examine the front, then get surprised by an 8 or 9 due to back centering issues. Don't be like past me with that Flareon.

Mistake #3: Grading Everything

Reality: Grading companies love it when you submit everything. Your wallet doesn't. Be selective.

Mistake #4: Chasing Speed Over Value

Reality: Paying $150 for fast grading on a $200 card is almost never worth it. Patience saves money. Unless you're flipping during a hype spike, just wait.

Mistake #5: Not Researching Comps First

Reality: Check eBay sold listings for your exact card in various grades BEFORE submitting. The market tells you if it's worth it. Takes 5 minutes. Saves you $50.

Mistake #6: Forgetting About Grading Company Choice

Reality: PSA generally commands the highest premiums, but CGC is gaining ground and costs less. For some cards, the savings might make CGC the smarter choice. And for Pokemon specifically? CGC subgrades can actually help a 9 sell like a 9.5.

Mistake #7: Handling Cards Without Protection

Reality: The moment you decide to grade, put it in a sleeve, then a toploader, and stop touching it. Every touch is a potential micro-scratch.

The Smart Approach: Pre-Grade Assessment

Why pay $50 and wait 3-6 months just to find out your card is a 7? That's an expensive way to learn you have scratches.

Instead, use a pre-grade assessment tool to:

• Identify hidden flaws you might miss
• Get a realistic grade prediction
• Calculate whether grading makes financial sense
• Save money by not submitting cards that won't grade well

I run every card through CardGrader.AI before I submit now. Caught a print line on a Charizard alt art that I'd completely missed. Would've been a costly 8.

Final Thoughts

So, should you grade your Pokemon card? There's no universal answer. It depends on the card, its condition, the market, and your goals.

But with this framework, you can make informed decisions instead of expensive guesses. Here's what I've learned after grading hundreds of cards:

1. Calculate the math before submitting anything
2. Be brutally honest about your card's condition
3. Research sold comps for your specific card
4. Use pre-grade assessment tools to avoid costly mistakes
5. When in doubt, don't grade—you can always submit later

The collectors who profit from grading aren't lucky. They're strategic. They grade selectively, assess honestly, and let the math guide their decisions.

What card are you thinking about grading? Run it through CardGrader.AI—I'd love to hear what you're working with.